Contributing Essay to

‘What We Talk About When We Talk About Dumplings’

Coach House Books

“First of all there is the texture. A properly created matzo ball, contained in its essential matrix of chicken soup, is a textural symphony weaving sensory notes into a toothsome engagement with the ancestors, their demands and their gifts. The fundamental textural tone is a slightly springy density that–meeting teeth–immediately releases, falling into porous pieces bursting with the golden broth. As the chewing continues, teeth, palate and tongue work together to slice through then press the tensile construction of the ball into releasing flavour bursts, made up of matzo, schmaltz (rendered chicken fat), eggs, salt spices and–in those version worthy of consideration–a broth that is deep, rich, smoky, briny, redolent with dill and carrot.”

That’s the opening paragraph of Sink or Swim: A Riff on the Essence of the Matzo Ball, David’s contribution to What We Talk About When We Talk About Dumplings. The volume was conceived and edited by award-winning journalist and author John Lorinc and published in 2022 by Coach House Press.

Contributors include: Michal Stein, Christina Gonzales, Kristen Arnett, David Buchbinder, André Alexis, Miles Morrisseau, Angela Misri, Perry King, Sylvia Putz, Mekhala Chaubal, Arlene Chan, Chantal Braganza, Naomi Duguid, Eric Geringas, Matthew Murtagh-Wu, Monika Warzecha, Bev Katz Rosenbaum, Tatum Taylor Chaubal, Domenica Marchetti, Julie Van Rosendaal, Amy Rosen, Cheryl Thompson, Jennifer Jordan, Marie Campbell and Navneet Alang